BIJIN
The vision of women in ukiyo-e
Bijin, which means “beautiful woman”, is a central gure in ukiyo-e. The female gure, represented repeatedly by ukiyo-e artists, was perfectly suited to capturing the essence of the new society, changing fashions, idealised beauty and sensuality, grace and opulence. These abundant visual depictions give us insight into the complex situation of women during this period of Japanese history.
Geisha were artists, dancers and instrumental musicians, not prostitutes. Poetically termed “butteries of the night in Japan”, they were genuine professionals, sophisticated hostesses and entertainers and experts in the art of conversation. They performed in tea houses or aboard yakatabune, boats with cabins that sailed up and down the River Sumida, and, upon request, in the palaces of their noblest clients as well. They wore kimonos that were elegant but less luxurious and ostentatious than those of courtesans.
The oiran or high-ranking courtesan was the backbone of the pleasure quarters. She also had to be well-versed in poetry and other arts and know how to play a variety of musical instruments. A yūjo or woman of pleasure was a prostitute only in a certain sense, for she was paid with money, but money alone was not enough to secure her favours. The tayū was the highest-class courtesan, a woman capable of holding intelligent conversations and well-acquainted with court etiquette who could keep company with noblemen and distinguished personalities.
The gritty reality of this world was deliberately concealed and ignored to avoid spoiling the fun: a golden world in appearance only that idealised the beauty of life’s pleasures, for which the courtesan paid a terrible price. Women became courtesans to support their elderly parents or secure loans, although they could also be abducted or sold into service: contracts of indenture were abusive, and they were expected to work night and day and perform whatever services the brothel required of them.
BIJIN
Textiles and ornaments
The kimono—which means “thing to wear” or “thing for wearing on the shoulders”—is worn by both men and women and is the traditional Japanese costume. Western apparel is often complicated to make but easy to wear, whereas the opposite is true of the kimono.
Its construction is extremely simple, consisting of seven cloth panels that form a single piece; the complicated part is knowing how to wrap it around the body. The garment is held in place by the obi, a sash tied around the waist. Depending on how it is worn, a kimono can look elegant or sloppy, drab or smart.
Men wore ankle-length kimono, while women had kimono that touched the ground and were usually gathered in folds above the obi. This garment was accessorised with various elements that added to the complexity of the costume, especially in the case of women.
In ukiyo prints of bijin, kimono design is a fundamental element, not only because of its aesthetic quality but also because it emphasises those attributes assigned to the female gender. Kimono and ornamental details are also useful for understanding the role of women in the past, their social status and the history of fashion.
